Agung Again

From the first time I climbed you and stood on the lower summit looking up at your actual peak, I knew I would be back. It wasn't the peak or the challenge I desired. It was simply to sit with you on your ultimate throne and experience your embrace as the night sky slowly faded, giving way to a new dawn and the wondrous possibilities that lie ahead. 

There is just something I love about working for a reward, and as I set off at midnight, I knew I was going to work for this guilty pleasure. My head torch cut through the misty atmosphere as our climb began in the lush tropical forest. Little did I know that we would still be climbing through that stunning forest for the next 3 hours, slipping and sliding our way forward into the night.

It felt cool for the island of Bali, yet somehow incredibly hot. Sweat poured from my pores as the relentless yet steady climb continued in silence. Every step seemed to be accompanied by a heavy breath, like a metronome setting a pace that will see us arrive as the first light of the new day meets the horizon. I remember an internal dialogue that confirmed that this relentless uphill trek was tough, damn tough. It had me moving slower than I would have liked, but with every breath came another step. I kept telling myself to keep moving forward. The pace was irrelevant. The momentum is what really mattered.

After a few hours of fighting our way uphill through a tropical jungle, we stopped for coffee; the nectar of life at 3 am never tasted so good. Dripping with sweat and needing a rest, I paused with a group of fellow climbers huddled around a fire the guides had made. The conversation was thin, but the reality was written all over the nervous faces surrounding the relieving warmth emanating from the small fire. Some had come for fun and were not finding it much fun. Others just decided they would like to test themselves and were now thinking twice about their chosen test. Some were seasoned climbers and hikers and were doing it with ease, while others had the look of 'This is more than I signed up for; I want out.'

Me, well, I lay somewhere in the middle. I am not a fan of hiking through forests, but I am a massive fan of life above the treeline. But you can't have one without the other. I was feeling the climb in my legs; the constant gradient took its toll on everybody, but the thing that kept my spirits up and my mind focused was the prize that awaited me in just a few short hours; I was just unaware that what I desired most would test every ounce of my commitment.

We cleared the forest and began the scramble that would play out over the next few hours. There is something magical about climbing volcanos; they feel so alive. Every step is earned as every step requires your total concentration and commitment. Loose rocks, sand, and jettison gravel make up an exotic surface. You can hear and feel your progress as every footfall crushes through the unstable surface; it's a game of patience, focus, and positive thinking.

I had to stop an hour above the tree line as the view I saw seemed somewhat unbelievable. As I turned to face where we had begun, I saw the lights of Bali as I had never witnessed before. The island glistened against the inky black night. It was a view that reminded me of the Hollywood hills, a view that enticed me to take a self-portrait, and that's when I felt it.

As I sat there indulging in the view, a short yet intense burst of wind came out of nowhere to remind me that I needed to stay focused. I looked up at my guide, who also felt it and was now staring towards the horizon. We didn't say a word, but we both knew what was coming. A short 10 minutes later, it arrived. Ferocious winds blowing from the ocean battered us with surprising strength sending the temperature plummeting as our bodies reacted to the weather change by shaking violently in an attempt to stay warm.

There was no escaping the wind as it seemed to become ever more powerful with every passing moment. All we could do was lean into this relentless and unwelcome guest and keep moving forward as slowly but surely every exposed part of our bodies began to feel numb. I have to admit that amongst all the cursing, I had to laugh at the simple fact that here we were freezing our asses off in what felt like an icy jet stream racing through the middle of the tropical island of Bali.

After two and a half hours of relentless freezing winds and constant ascending, we reached the first peak, and the truth is I thought it was over, or rather I hoped it was over. But in the distance rose two more peaks joined by a thin trail stretching high above to extremely steep and dramatic-looking volcanic faces. It was clear that I would have to keep pushing forward to achieve what I desired. I took a moment to gather myself, gazing at the distant horizon, and saw the first colorful blush of dawn faintly kiss the fast-moving clouds above.

If ever I needed a shot in the arm, this was the perfect incentive. The allure of what could be a stunning sunrise moved me forward with a new intensity. Gone was the heavy breathing; my sore legs were now a memory replaced by the childlike excitement of what could be waiting for me just over there.

We made quick time traversing the thin trail that connected the first two peaks, but I have to admit I was feeling just a little nervous as the winds seemed to become stronger with every meter we gained. After another thin trail and gail force traversed, we arrived at Mt Agung's blustery wind swept summit.

There was no time for congratulations; that would come later. For me, it was time to get to work and see if I could capture just one image that does this most beautiful mountain justice. The wind didn't stop that day. It was harsh, made you feel alive. Fear has a way of doing that. But as the sun emerged from behind the horizon and I lifted my camera to peer through the eyepiece, I knew my soul was whole, and my heart was smiling. The simple truth was that what happened next didn't matter. 

For a glorious moment, I was doing exactly what I desired.